You must set up containment when cleaning away mold. The purpose of containment is to prevent mold spores and moldy dust from spreading into habitable areas. Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space, for example in an attic, by keeping the opening between the attic and the room or rooms below closed, by putting an exhaust fan in an attic window, if present, and by closing any other windows in the space. If there are no windows or other openings to the exterior in the attic, you can hire an electrician to install an attic fan on the roof that will then serve as an exhaust. Using expanding foam or steel wool, seal any openings around pipes or ducts that lead from the attic to rooms below.

Sometimes an attic is accessed through a garage. If you access your attic, however, through a habitable space, you must extend the containment so you can take off your PPE before you enter other areas of your home.

If you get to the attic by using pull-down stairs in a bedroom, you can empty the room and keep the doors to adjacent spaces closed. If it’s too difficult to take everything out of the room, you can isolate a small space around the attic access by using Zipwalls (www.zipwalls.com) - in effect, creating a sheet-plastic room within a room. If the pull-down stairs are in the hallway, setting up Zipwalls at the bottom of the open stairs may restrict access to other rooms. In this case, you can enclose a small area around the top of the stairs, inside the attic, using plastic sheeting stapled to rafters or sheathing. If you access your attic through a hatch in a closet, empty the closet and isolate a small area outside the closet door by setting up Zipwalls.

As long as they set up containment and wear PPE, and do not themselves have mold allergies, home occupants or trained maintenance personnel can clean an area less than 10 square feet in size that contains mold growth not caused by long-term leaks. (If you are asthmatic or allergic to mold, consult a physician before tackling mold clean-up jobs.)

It’s highly recommended that professional remediators deal with the following:

• Surfaces that contain mold growth caused by long-term leaks (because there may be extensive, concealed mold growth present).
• Surfaces that contain mold growth and that are greater than 10 square feet in size.
• An area that experienced major flooding.
• An area that experienced flooding from category 2 water (from a washing machine, overflowing toilet with urine but no feces, or when water has flowed over a very dirty carpet).
• An area that experienced flooding from category 3 water (from a sewer back-up; a river that contains silt, organic debris, or dangerous chemicals; or an overflowing toilet that contained feces).

Using EZ Mold Test Kits, test the air in the attic. You can also test any exposed fiberglass insulation by pressing the soft surface of the open test kit up against the insulation (wear a respirator when taking the sample). Test the air in the rooms below the attic. If any heating or cooling ducts pass through the attic, test the air coming out of those supplies. If that air contains mold, ask an HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) professional to evaluate the system and clean it as needed, including the coil.If the system contains fibrous lining material, the material may contain mold growth and have to be replaced. (You can test any exposed fibrous liner by pressing the soft surface of the open test kit up against the material.Remember to wear a respirator when taking the sample.) Flexible ducts are difficult to clean and thus may also have to be replaced if contaminated with mold growth.

You don’t have to wait until you get the test results to start cleaning areas that contain visible mold.

Put on your PPE and set up containment.

Remove any possessions you’ve been storing in the attic. If they are damp, allow them to air dry in the sun. If there are any possessions you want to keep, place them once dry in some kind of watertight or airtight storage container until they can be properly cleaned. Discard the rest. If possible, remove things directly from the attic to the exterior via a window. If you have to take goods through the house, put them in plastic garbage bags or seal them in thin polyethylene plastic first.

Get rid of moisture sources. Repair any roof leaks. Make sure that bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans vent directly to the exterior through a vent kit and not up into the attic or only into the soffit space above a soffit vent. Check cooling ducts or other cooling equipment located in the attic to be sure there are no gaps or openings in the insulation or ductwork; seal as needed. Measure the relative humidity (RH) with a hygrometer, available in many hardware and building supply stores. If the RH is above 50%, dehumidify the space.Drying the air will help dry out surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products. (Once the wood is dried out and you start the exhaust fan, the attic RH will become equal to the outdoor RH, however, and you no longer can dehumidify the space.)

Directions for use: It’s only possible to take one of the following three tests with the EZ-Mold Test Kit. Additional kits are required to test more than one area of a property.

Swab Test: The first and most obvious test would be a swab test. Pour the potato dextrose agar into the bottom piece of the Petri dish, then place the lid back on and sit the dish on a flat surface to harden for an hour. Once the agar has hardened, take the dish to the area to be tested. Using the swab, gently roll the tip of it over the moldy surface a few times. Microscopic spores will adhere to the tip. Gently roll the tip upon the hardened agar surface inside the dish. Apply to as many places in the dish as desired in order to get several cultures started. Then close the lid, tape it shut on the edges with clear or electrical tape. Then sit the dish aside for 24-72 hours. Mold will start growing within a couple of days. Some molds grow slower than others, so if nothing is happening in the dish after two days, check the kit each day after this to see if mold starts to grow.

Air Test: Pour the potato dextrose into the Petri dish and then replace the lid. Sit the dish aside on a flat surface to harden for an hour. Once it’s hardened, remove the lid and place the dish with the hardened agar on a flat surface in the room to be tested. Mold spores in the air will settle in the dish. Leave the dish there for an hour. After this, replace the lid and seal the lid to the bottom with clear or electrical tape. Set the dish on a flat surface for 24-72 hours. If there really were excessive mold spores in the air, mold should begin to grow within two to three days. If mold begins to grow, send the kit back to us so that we can have it analyzed by our lab.

Ventilation Test: Pour the potato dextrose agar into the Petri dish. Replace the lid and sit the dish on a flat surface to dry for an hour. Once the solution is hardened, take the dish to one of the vents in the building. Remove the lid and tape the dish to the grill, open side facing into the vent. Then turn the ventilation system on for 5-10 minutes. If mold or mold spores are in the ventilation system, they will collect in the dish. After 10 minutes turn the system off and then replace the lid on the dish. Tape the top lid to the bottom with clear or electrical tape and then sit it aside for 24-72 hours. If the system was contaminated, mold will begin to grow in the dish within a few days. At this point send the dish to a lab for analysis.

Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner comes in concentrated packets. It is an oxygen-enzyme technology formulated for the cleaning and deodorization of mold and mildew stains on any porous or nonporous surface that is washable with water. Oxy-Mold™ is biodegradable and eco-friendly. It’s harmless plants, contains no bleach or ammonia, and is non-flammable. It can be used safely in areas with limited ventilation.

Directions for Use in Washing Machines or Clothing

For the deodorization of musty odors in washing machines, just toss a packet of the Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner in with a regular load of laundry, or run an empty cycle with the Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner. Washing machines, especially front loaders, tend to build up moisture and musty odors on a regular basis, so continued maintenance with Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner may be necessary.

Clothing itself can be difficult, if not impossible to treat. Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner can remove musty odors from most clothing, especially light weight clothing. However, for heavier items (jackets, sweatshirts, jeans, etc.) strong musty odors can be impossible to remove. These items should be disposed of. Also, clothing with visible mold growth on it should be disposed of. When in doubt, check with a local mold remediation company or a drycleaner.

Directions for Use Indoors

Mix one packet of Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner with two gallons of warm water. Apply with a pump sprayer or a sponge to any porous or nonporous surface that’s water washable. Nonporous surfaces can be wiped down and rinsed off to remove mold stains. Porous items like wood, concrete and other surfaces may require strong scrubbing with a stiff brush to remove some of the harsh stains molds can leave behind. Rinse the Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner off of the surface afterward with water. Wood, if the mold has been growing on it for more than a few days, may even need to be sanded.

Directions for Use Outdoors

Mix one packet of Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner with two gallons of warm water. Apply with a pump sprayer, sponge or pressure washer. For small, easy to reach areas, the Mold and Mildew Stain Cleaner can be sprayed on, scrubbed and washed off. For larger more difficult jobs, pressure washing may be an option. This can help to remove mold stains from driveways, block or brick walls, most siding, and even roof shingles if done carefully and correctly.

Directions For Use:

It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. This product is not for use on Medical devices or medical equipment surfaces.

Apply this product with a cloth, mop or mechanical spray device. When applied with a mechanical spray device, surfaces must be sprayed until thoroughly wetted. Treated surfaces must remain wet for 10 minutes. For sprayer applications, use a coarse pump or trigger sprayer. Spray 6-8inches from surface. Rub with brush, sponge or cloth. Do not breathe spray.

NOTE: With spray applications cover or remove all food products. Prepare a fresh solution at least daily or when use solution becomes visibly dirty. For heavily soiled areas, a preliminary cleaning is required.

DISINFECTION/FUNGICIDAL DIRECTIONS: Use at a rate of 4 ounces per gallon (or equivalent use dilution). Allow surfaces to remain wet for 10 minutes. Apply solution to hard inanimate, non-porous surfaces, thoroughly wetting surfaces as required, with a cloth, mop, sponge or sprayer. For heavily soiled areas, a preliminary cleaning is required. For sprayer applications use a coarse spray device. Spray 6-8 inches from surface. Rub with brush, sponge or cloth. Do not breathe spray. Prepare a fresh solution at least daily or when use dilution becomes diluted or soiled.

FUNGICIDAL PERFORMANCE: At 4 ounces per gallon use-level, (or equivalent use dilution) (488 ppm active quat) and a 10 minute contact time, this product is effective against Trichophyton mentagrophytes, athlete's foot fungus, and Aspergillus niger on inanimate surfaces in locker rooms, dressing rooms, shower and bath areas and exercise facilities. Pre-clean all surfaces prior to using this product.

MILDEWSTAT: Controls the growth of mold and mildew on pre-cleaned hard, non-porous surfaces (such as floors, walls, table tops) add 4 oz. of this product per gallon of water (488 ppm active quat) (or equivalent use dilution). Apply solution with a cloth, mop or sponge making sure to wet all surfaces completely. Let surface air dry. Prepare a fresh solution for each use. Repeat application at weekly intervals or when mildew growth reappears.

WATER AND SMOKE DAMAGE RESTORATION (Not applicable in CA)

Effective against odor causing bacteria and fungi for home, institutional, industrial and hospital use. This product is particularly suitable for use in water damage restoration situations against odor causing bacteria on the following porous and semi-porous materials: carpets, carpet cushion, sub floors, drywall, trim, and frame lumber, tackless strip and paneling. Saturate affected materials with enough product to remain wet for at least 10 minutes. Use proper ventilation.

Sewer backup & river flooding (Not applicable in CA): During mitigation procedures, dilute 6 to 12 ounces of this product per gallon of water (or equivalent use dilution) allowing for the diluting effect of absorbed water within saturated materials. Remove gross filth or heavy soil along with non-salvageable materials. Saturate all affected areas with a sprayer using a coarse spray tip, before and after cleaning and extraction.

Carpets, carpet cushions & other porous materials such as sub floors, drywall, trim and frame lumber, tackless strip and paneling: For water damage from a clean water source, extract excess water. Test hidden area for colorfastness. Dilute 6 to 12 ounces of the product per gallon of water (or equivalent use dilution), allowing for the diluting effect of absorbed water within saturated materials. Remove gross filth or heavy soil. Apply directly with a sprayer using a coarse spray tip, to fully saturate affected materials. Roll, brush or agitate into materials and allow the materials to remain damp for 10 minutes. Follow with a thorough extraction. Dry rapidly and thoroughly.

Special Instructions for Cleaning Carpet against Odor Causing Bacteria: This product may be used in industrial, institutional, commercial and residential areas such as homes, motels & hotel chains, nursing homes, schools and hospital(s). For use on wet, cleanable synthetic fibers. Do not use on wool. Vacuum carpet thoroughly prior to cleaning. Test fabric for color fastness.

For Portable Extraction Units: Mix 3 ounces of this product per gallon of water.

For Truck Mounted Extraction Machines: Mix 104 ounces of the product per 1½ gallons of water (or equivalent use dilution) and meter at 4 gallons per hour.

For Rotary Floor Machines: Mix 6 ounces of this product per gallon of water (or equivalent use dilution) and apply at the rate of 300-500 sq. ft. per gallon. Do not mix this product with other cleaning products. Follow the cleaning procedures specified by the manufacturer of the cleaning equipment. After using this product, set the carpet pile and protect the carpet from furniture legs and bases while drying. Do not over wet. If applied to stain resistant nylon carpet, apply a fabric protector according to the carpet manufacturer's directions.

SMOKE DAMAGE RESTORATION (Not applicable in CA): Effective against odor causing bacteria and fungi for home, institutional, industrial and hospital use. This product is particularly suitable for use in smoke damage restoration situations against odor causing bacteria on the following porous and semi-porous materials: carpets, carpet cushion, sub floors, drywall, trim and frame lumber, tackless strip and paneling. Follow directions as outlined in the Water Damage Restoration section. Saturate affected materials with enough product to remain wet for at least 10 minutes. Use proper ventilation.

CARPET DEODORIZATION AGAINST ODOR-CAUSING BACTERIA, FOR HOME, INSTITUTIONAL, INDUSTRIAL AND HOSPITAL USE: This product cleans and deodorizes the carpet by controlling/reducing the growth of odor-causing bacteria. It can be used in industrial, institutional, commercial and residential areas such as homes, motels, hotels chains, nursing homes and hospitals. Vacuum carpet thoroughly prior to application. Mix 3 ounces of product per gallon of water (or equivalent use dilution). Follow the injection and/or extraction procedures as specified for any conventional steam cleaning equipment you are using. For rotary floor machines, mix 1 ounce per gallon of water and spray on carpet at a rate of 300-500 sq. ft. per gallon. For use on washable synthetic fibers. Do not use on wool. Test color fastness of carpet before use. Apply diluted product to a small, concealed spot, then rub with a clean white cloth. If color changes or transfers to cloth, a water-based product should not be used. After using the product, set carpet pile in one direction with a stiff brush. Place aluminum foil under the legs of furniture while carpet is drying. Over-wetting can cause carpet to shrink. Manufacturer assumes no responsibility for over-wetting misuse.

Note: This product must not be mixed with other cleaning products.

These are P-100 (particulate) respirators that, when used with appropriate cartridges, can also protect against Organic Vapor, Chlorine, Hydrogen Chloride, Sulfur Dioxide, Hydrogen Sulfide, Hydrogen Fluoride, Chlorine Dioxide, Ammonia, Methylamine and Formaldehyde.

Trask offers large and extra-large size coveralls to protect from contact with Trask’s chemicals as well as mold spores and mold damaged materials. In some applications coveralls are not entirely necessary, but in any case where there are moldy materials that need to be removed, if work is being done in a tight area like an attic or crawlspace, or if chemicals must be sprayed up high or overhead, coveralls are essential.

These are Nitrile, powder free 4 mil examination gloves. Mold Inspectors use these when sampling for mold to avoid the cross contamination of testing equipment. These will protect the wearer from mold spores and most water based chemicals, however, work gloves may be necessary as well when cutting out or removing mold damaged materials, or when working in a crawlspace or an attic.

This is a safesplash goggle, made of soft vinyl, with indirect ventilation to prevent the intrusion of chemicals and particulates.

If there is exposed fiberglass insulation present, and there is visible mold on the rafters or sheathing, or the fiberglass contains rodent burrows, the insulation should be removed, put into plastic trash bags and discarded. Using a HEPA vacuum (one with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter), vacuum all surfaces: any flooring present, rafters, sheathing, and any mechanical equipment located in the attic. (Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner or a shop vacuum, because these vacuums will spew out mold spores in their exhaust.) Heavily soiled wood surfaces can be wire-brushed or sanded. If you are sanding, use a sander that can be connected to a HEPA vacuum to collect the dust.

Treat surfaces with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide as needed (follow product directions). Allow surfaces to dry before applying antimicrobial paints or sealants. (It’s also a good idea to spray paint the sheathing and rafters with a sealant.) Dehumidify if necessary to help surfaces dry after you’ve cleaned the space.

If reinstalling fiberglass insulation between the joists, cover the insulation with plywood or some other sort of flooring, if space permits. The flooring will also provide safer access to the space.

When you’ve finished this work, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the space once again. Then take your coveralls, as well as boots, shoes or booties, off as soon as possible within your containment area, before you move around in habitable spaces. Remove your respirator last. Clean clothing before wearing again.

Consider re-testing the attic for airborne spores and re-treat as necessary. Since a ventilated attic is “open” to the outside, you can also test the outdoor air for comparison. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure you have finished the job.

As a precaution, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the room or rooms below the attic after you’ve completed the attic clean-up work If you are using the same HEPA vacuum that you used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside, and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, and put a new bag and HEPA filter inside. Do post-remediation testing in those rooms. Depending on the results, more cleaning may be required.

Ventilation alone will not prevent mold growth from reoccurring; you must get rid of moisture sources. To minimize airflows from the house into the attic, be sure the door or access hatch leading to the attic closes tightly. You can gasket the door or cover the hatch with an “attic tent” (an insulated box that sits in the attic on top of the hatch). Replace recessed fixtures that allow house air to flow up into the attic. Seal around pipe and duct chases. Any fan that exhausts house air must vent directly to the exterior, either through the roof, a gable-end vent, or a vent kit that is installed in the soffit. Leaky ducts and HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) equipment in the attic should be sealed.